Memorial day 2020 we decided to make the most of our 3 day weekend and head to a new (to me) explored are of Utah- Cedar Mesa and Bears Ears. With how busy most outdoor spaces have become in the wake of Covid-19, we hoped going a little further from any cities would put some distance between us and the crowds and we were right. We started the trail to House on Fire around 2 in the afternoon and had the trail and ruins mostly to ourselves.
Distance: 2 miles RT to the House on Fire ruins but continue down canyon as far as 8 miles RT and you’ll spot 6 more ruins along the way.
Elevation: flat, albeit sandy
Time: 1 hour (more if you want to see more ruins in this area)
Fees: Bears Ears day use fees are $5pp/ day or pay $10pp for a week. (increased from $2 Jan 1,2020) Self-serve pay stations, bring cash. (Day hiking fees in this area are not covered by the National Park Pass)
Dogs?: Dog friendly, but on leash
Trailhead Directions: If travelling from hwy 191 through Blanding, take hwy 95 for 25 miles when you’ll see a road marked for Texas Flat Road. Drive down this road 0.3 miles to where a canyon appears on your left. This is the trail.
*Note: the fee box is at the beginning of the right turn off and you’ll want to display the receipt for paying your dues on your dash before hiking. A couple cars along the road had fee reminder notes/ tickets on them.
Park along this road and head down canyon to your left. At the bottom of the small hill you’ll find the trail sign and register.
About the House on Fire:
The House on Fire like the other cliff dwellings in the area were built between 700-2500 years ago by ancestral Puebloan tribes. The House on Fire isn’t actually a house at all and instead consists of five granaries built into Cedar Mesa sandstone. The granaries were used to store mostly corn which was a major food source then. The overhang that forms the ceiling has a unique, streaked pattern that resembles flames. The best time of day to photograph is around 10-11 when the sun is just over the canyon walls and bounces up to reflect off the ceiling.
Our experience with the hike:
We started about 2 and unlike our previous short hike where we didn’t bring water, we learned it was better to bring it as the dogs were getting very hot. While the trailhead was lined with cars, the only people we saw the entire time was an older couple right at the beginning and then a family at the ruins.
The hike only took us 25 minutes to get to the ruins which are on the right side marked by a small trail arrow. It would be easy to miss so I recommend downloading the all trails map or making frequent looks behind you once you’ve gone a mile.
The family that was there before us finished their photos quickly and left us with the ruins all to ourselves. There are many signs indicating not to try to enter the ruins (please listen to these) I put my phone through one of the windows to capture a photo inside instead.
The area around the ruins is also a bit fun to explore as there is a cave like boulder area and spots where you can scramble up on top. We spent about 15 minutes exploring around and then walked back in another 25 minutes.
All in all this was a great little hike and I imagine there’s many fun ruins further down Mule canyon. If you are worried about finding your way, I recommend alltrails. It lead us straight and true on this one.
What to see nearby:
The Butler Wash Ruins
These are an easy stop on your way to or from Blanding and are only 1 mile RT. They lead to a scenic overlook so you cant get as close as with House on Fire but it is very cool to see the differences in architecture employed between the higher cliff dwellings and the boxier sites like House on Fire.
The Valley of the Gods
While not home to very many hiking adventures the Valley of the Gods is a beautiful scenic drive with lots of little spaces to explore and best of all- to camp. There are so many beautiful pullouts with expansive views that would make amazing camp spots. Just remember to pack out what you pack in (including human waste please) Combine with the Moqui Dugway for one hell of a driving experience. Don’t worry- the roads are gravel/ dirt but any car can make it.
Goosenecks State Park
I visited here way back in 2016 and have always wanted to revisit. It’s a wild place with beauty that rivals views in Canyonlands and beyond and for a very moderate price. Pack your camping gear if you want to sleep in front of the most incredible view but be warned- the winds NEVER die down out there and you WILL have to put rocks in your tent so you dont lose it to the winds and canyon.
Fees: $5/ car day use. $10/ campsite. Likely self-self pay, make sure to have cash
Natural Bridges National Monument
Bonus 1: I haven’t been able to visit yet (although plans are in the works) but within Natural Bridges there are many more ruins to explore alongside 3 huge natural bridges (arches) which combined make for a really fun day. The trails weren’t very dog friendly so I’ve decided to visit here on a trip without my boys.
Fees: $20/ car day pass. Entrance included with an America the Beautiful National Park Pass OR South-Eastern Utah Pass that covers Arches, Canyonlands, and Hovenweep NM.
Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum
This is another bonus as I haven’t been able to stop here yet (not a dog friendly museum) but if you’re interested in seeing how the ancestral Puebloans lived with a fantastic recreation of the dwellings and villages this is for you. They even have a full scale kiva you can climb down in and the largest pottery on display in the Four Corners Region.
Fees: $5/adult. $3/ child. Children 5 and under are free.
Hours: Open Mon-Sat/ 10AM-4 PM. Closed on Sundays and most major holidays.